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The Wallpaper* S/S 2025 trend report: ‘A rejection of the derivative and the expected’

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The Wallpaper* S/S 2025 trend report: ‘A rejection of the derivative and the expected’

Embracing the Unconventional: Fashion's Eclectic Reinvention

The fashion world has witnessed a remarkable shift in recent seasons, as designers have embraced the unexpected and the unconventional. From Prada's celebration of individual style to Bottega Veneta's playful reimagining of everyday objects, the S/S 2025 womenswear collections have been a testament to the industry's willingness to challenge the status quo. This article delves into the key trends and transformations that have defined this captivating moment in fashion, exploring how designers are redefining the boundaries of luxury and personal expression.

Unleashing the Power of Individuality

A Prada for Each Individual

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons' S/S 2025 collection for Prada was a bold statement on the power of individual style. Rejecting the notion of trends or thematic cohesion, the duo presented a freewheeling and eclectic showcase that celebrated the unique expression of each model. From sculptural silver skirts to leather dresses with BDSM-inspired elements, the collection was a visual feast that defied expectations. "We thought of each individual as a superhero – with their own power, their own story," said Simons, underscoring the collection's mission to empower personal style.

Bottega Veneta's Childhood Wonder

Matthieu Blazy's latest offering for Bottega Veneta echoed a similar sentiment, as he sought to evoke a sense of childhood wonder through his designs. Juxtaposing "Italian sartorialism" with playful flourishes, the collection featured tasseled wigs, blown-up tailoring, and animal motifs – a testament to the designer's belief that luxury fashion should spark joy. "Last season was maybe more contemplative," Blazy explained. "But at the same time, we need beauty. We need joy. We need this moment for ourselves, and continue to play."

Valentino's Expansive Vision

In Paris, Alessandro Michele's debut collection for Valentino was a richly expansive exploration of beauty, with over 85 looks that incorporated a dizzying array of elements, from ruffles and feathers to polka dots and floral motifs. Much like Prada and Bottega Veneta, Michele's vision celebrated the individual, inviting wearers to experiment with clothing and embrace their unique style.

Redefining the Everyday

Designers across the season also sought to redefine the everyday, elevating mundane objects and garments into high-fashion statements. Matthieu Blazy's Bottega Veneta collection featured leather recreations of plastic shopping bags, bunches of flowers, and brown paper bags, while Demna at Balenciaga radically altered the proportions of classic denim jeans. At Issey Miyake, models carried shopping-style bags filled with bunches of flowers, blurring the line between function and fashion.

Loewe's Idiosyncratic Approach

Jonathan Anderson's Loewe showcased a similar penchant for the unexpected, featuring feathered T-shirts hand-painted with reproductions of Van Gogh's iconic works. "We get so used to them that they become a kind of high-low culture," Anderson explained, placing these "burned-out" images in a new context to shift the viewer's perspective.

Tailoring Reimagined

The season also saw a renewed focus on tailoring, with designers pushing the boundaries of traditional silhouettes. At Loewe, Anderson presented a tailored jacket with long, flared sleeves and baggy, twisting trousers, creating a look of "louche elegance." Elsewhere, Victoria Beckham turned blazers inside out or sliced tailored trousers to expose the pocket lining, while Dolce & Gabbana incorporated Jean Paul Gaultier-inspired "cone-bra" elements into their jackets.

Dissecting American Fashion

The season also saw designers grappling with the complexities of American fashion and identity. Willy Chavarria's "América" collection paid homage to the immigrant communities he grew up with, while Tory Burch and Tommy Hilfiger drew inspiration from the history of American sportswear and the synergy between fashion and hip-hop. Ib Kamara's debut Off-White show in New York celebrated the city's status as a cultural melting pot, while Pieter Mulier's Alaïa collection conjured the glamour of American fashion icons like Charles James and Halston.

Illusions and Disorientation

Underlying much of the season's experimentation was a sense of disorientation and illusion. Balenciaga's trompe l'oeil lingerie, which featured embroidered bras and stockings on nude bodysuits, captured this mood, as did JW Anderson's dresses adorned with faux buttons and zips. Elsewhere, designers played with the idea of garments that appeared to have a life of their own, whether through purposefully creased fabrics or dresses that seemed to twist and leap off the models' bodies.In a world where the lines between reality and fantasy continue to blur, the S/S 2025 womenswear collections have emerged as a bold and captivating response. From the celebration of individual style to the reimagining of the everyday, these designers have pushed the boundaries of fashion, inviting wearers to embrace the unconventional and the unexpected. As the industry continues to evolve, this season's offerings stand as a testament to the power of creativity and the enduring allure of the sartorial unknown.

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